Im over two weeks into my journey and I've been in Varanasi for 4 days now. The rest of my time in Rishikesh was magical due to an insane battle with a guard and a well fought for falling upon a locked up abandon ashram. where the Beatles stayed to write the white album. the energy in this room was beyond explainable and the psychedelic paintings revealing different lyrics and pieces of so many songs, hand prints, and secrets inside of secrets let your imagination run wild as to what really went on in this room. It was the perfect end to my stay. I am officially having Bikram yoga with drawls though. The yoga in Rishikesh was poor but the chanting and mediation was beautiful. The view of the Ganga and brisk clean air created the perfect atmosphere for full mind manipulation. Still beyond enjoyable.
Another agonizing journey to Agra to see the Taj Mahol. Though this winnibego style bus we took had some definite upgrades from out last, it still was quite the scary ride. Another 40 year old means of transportation matched with an angry bus driver and fog you couldn't see you hand in makes for a very iffie bus ride. Especially when its 35 degrees and in a sleeper bunk i could fall right out of while traveling over non existent roads. This trip made us decide it was time to move more south. the taj mahol was great.. i guess. I couldn't see it due to the intense fog and was a bit of a downer. my bones have not had a break from the cold in over 5 days and it was starting to get to my brain. Not even spending a night in Agra we bought our train tickets to Varanasi and boarded our second 24 hour train.
It's definitely intense here. It has the people of Mumbai smashed into a more rural type village city deal. we arrived the last three days of the festival of the goddess of music and these celebrations are nothing compared to that of western culture. Mass drumming through the allies and streets, fireworks going off 2 feet in front of you that just sound like bombs, sending shrines off into the river, screaming and chanting, loud music at all hours. just to name a few. I would imagine being a child here would be anything but boring.
Two very unexpected things have happens our last two days here. Erica and i were leisurely walking down the ghats where a holy man covered in the ashes of the diseased caught eyes with us and motioned to have us join him and his friends. We were not about to turn that opportunity down and joined him around the 24 hour flame for a smoke and some dinner that another traveler he invited over was cooking up. We sat and talked for hours, well the holy man BaBa G, he just motioned and made noise (he doesn't speak) but we chatted and ate and stayed warm by the fire. Other westerners would pass and stop to take pictures and probably wonder what these whities were doing round the fire with these crazy homeless folks but Baba wouldn't allow it. He would stand and shake the bell that he had attached to his penis at them (oh he was naked the whole time) and make them leave or give him money for pictures. Good business man. It was and experience like no other. Following this holy man we stumbled accross a member of the agori tribe. A cannibalistic tribe of wanderers who worship shiva and live a solitary life. He invited us to meet him across the river where he welcomed us on a cloth where two human skulls sat. Here we took pictures and used and interpreter to ask him questions about his life style and his people. As parting gifts Erica and i got a set of human teeth and half a human skull. for my next task...figure out how to smuggle this into the states. Anyone have any ideas or know anything about customs into the Americas? need some help...
Today i leave for Kalkuta where there is more yoga to be had and some warm air waiting for me. Til next time...
Monday, January 25, 2010
Friday, January 15, 2010
stage two in this video game i call life
Everyone told me how horrid the flight here would be. 24 hours of travel time. One stop. 19 hours to Delhi another 3 plus to Mambai. What they didn't know is that i was going to sleep for over ten of those hours, meet a helpful man named Riz in the Delhi airport and get upgraded to first class to fly to Mumbai, and coast through detleg like nothin. Those people must have never been on a 24 hour train from Mumbai to Delhi and a connecting 7 hour bus ride with one stop while being completely sick to their stomache.
To get to Rishakesh, the yoga capital of the world, we had to take a 24 hour train which would not have been so bad if i had 5 more blankets and did not become ill the last4 hours of the trip. The closer to Delhi we got, the more the temperature dropped. It was of course mid sleep when the real cold hit. The windows created a wind tunnel of winter like breeze and bone stabbing temps that a corps couldn't sleep through. I was awake a majority of the ride and on top of that the breeze brought me a raging sickness and deep stomach pains. After dragging myself off the train, taking a tuk tuk over to the bus station and figuring out a connecting bus to Rishakesh (huge hassle when everyone tells you something different) we were on our way. I had to pay for an extra seat so i could lay down . The only position i felt i wouldn't die in was laying completely flat. I was luck enough to have Erica who let me rest my head on her lap. So doesn't sound too bad huh? Except this bus was a rusty ass dirty box with plastic windows and was scheduled to make only one stop. Also, the man behind me hit me in the back of the head for laying down and taking up a seat he wanted. Rude. After 30min into the trip i was pretty sure i wouldn't make it. I cried (to myself of course). Another hour later enough people asked to stop to pee for the bus to make a premature stop. On the side of the road. I looked up and everyone on the bus had gotten off and literally just started peeing right there. i looked at Erica, stared crying and told her i couldn't do it. The Stomach pains were more shark than ever and every bump we hit felt like a dagger was jabbing me in my abdomen. So a laid back down and tried to sleep.
One stop and a few hours later we were in our new home. It was late at night, completely dark, and all was pretty much closed which was perfect. I had to wear everything i had heavier than a tank top to keep warm and Erica and I tried to keep each other warm with our body heats. Helped. Not much though. What i awoke to was completely unexpected and unexplainable, totally worth the cold. Our ashram, set so perfectly in the foot hills of the Himalayas, over looking the Ganga River, the mountains lining the scape. Uh! As we walked up the foot bridge people all around were welcoming us, there were yoga places everywhere and the view from the bridge was out of control literally took my breath away. This was what i came here for. This beauty and this solitude. I couldn't have asked for a more perfect place after leaving Mumbai. This was my new home. I felt an unexplainable peace and the purest calm. Pure love for my surroundings.
The last two day Erica and i spend at Khumayla where over 5 million people gathered to dip in the Gangas waters, perform their beautiful ceremonies and say their punja and send their flame down the river. It was a very special day yesterday, for it was a solar eclipse and Jupiter was moving into Aquarius. But people seemed more fascinated with us than anything. We were videoed and photographed. People trying to sneak up behind us while their friend stood in front to sneak a picture with their camera phones. We asked for money as a joke once and the guy totally paid... ha... so we took it. Why not? My highlight was seeing a member of the Agori tribe. Covered in the ritualistic cremation ashes from head to toe, wearing a human skull round his neck, and having a head of matted dreads, these tribes men are firm believers in multiple different drug usage and have cannibalistic tendencies. They are absolutely beautiful. And I'm thinking of becoming one.... eh? Or atleast stating my own religion or tribe and living in the trees out here and making my jewelry from all these different animals int the road. Oh was really brok my heart the other day. A mother monkey standing on the hood of a car screaming and drying into the street. We were in a tuk tuk and didnt know what was going on at first but as we got closer we saw there, her young dead in the street. Someone had hit her baby and she was crying a sound i have never heard before. It was heart breaking and that image is ingreained in my head. I would have saved that monkey.
I think we will stay here a few more days then head to Varanasi and Darjeeling, ride that train!
Sorry for the words and lack of pictures but my computer is still broken. I'm working on it though...
With love and peace
G
To get to Rishakesh, the yoga capital of the world, we had to take a 24 hour train which would not have been so bad if i had 5 more blankets and did not become ill the last4 hours of the trip. The closer to Delhi we got, the more the temperature dropped. It was of course mid sleep when the real cold hit. The windows created a wind tunnel of winter like breeze and bone stabbing temps that a corps couldn't sleep through. I was awake a majority of the ride and on top of that the breeze brought me a raging sickness and deep stomach pains. After dragging myself off the train, taking a tuk tuk over to the bus station and figuring out a connecting bus to Rishakesh (huge hassle when everyone tells you something different) we were on our way. I had to pay for an extra seat so i could lay down . The only position i felt i wouldn't die in was laying completely flat. I was luck enough to have Erica who let me rest my head on her lap. So doesn't sound too bad huh? Except this bus was a rusty ass dirty box with plastic windows and was scheduled to make only one stop. Also, the man behind me hit me in the back of the head for laying down and taking up a seat he wanted. Rude. After 30min into the trip i was pretty sure i wouldn't make it. I cried (to myself of course). Another hour later enough people asked to stop to pee for the bus to make a premature stop. On the side of the road. I looked up and everyone on the bus had gotten off and literally just started peeing right there. i looked at Erica, stared crying and told her i couldn't do it. The Stomach pains were more shark than ever and every bump we hit felt like a dagger was jabbing me in my abdomen. So a laid back down and tried to sleep.
One stop and a few hours later we were in our new home. It was late at night, completely dark, and all was pretty much closed which was perfect. I had to wear everything i had heavier than a tank top to keep warm and Erica and I tried to keep each other warm with our body heats. Helped. Not much though. What i awoke to was completely unexpected and unexplainable, totally worth the cold. Our ashram, set so perfectly in the foot hills of the Himalayas, over looking the Ganga River, the mountains lining the scape. Uh! As we walked up the foot bridge people all around were welcoming us, there were yoga places everywhere and the view from the bridge was out of control literally took my breath away. This was what i came here for. This beauty and this solitude. I couldn't have asked for a more perfect place after leaving Mumbai. This was my new home. I felt an unexplainable peace and the purest calm. Pure love for my surroundings.
The last two day Erica and i spend at Khumayla where over 5 million people gathered to dip in the Gangas waters, perform their beautiful ceremonies and say their punja and send their flame down the river. It was a very special day yesterday, for it was a solar eclipse and Jupiter was moving into Aquarius. But people seemed more fascinated with us than anything. We were videoed and photographed. People trying to sneak up behind us while their friend stood in front to sneak a picture with their camera phones. We asked for money as a joke once and the guy totally paid... ha... so we took it. Why not? My highlight was seeing a member of the Agori tribe. Covered in the ritualistic cremation ashes from head to toe, wearing a human skull round his neck, and having a head of matted dreads, these tribes men are firm believers in multiple different drug usage and have cannibalistic tendencies. They are absolutely beautiful. And I'm thinking of becoming one.... eh? Or atleast stating my own religion or tribe and living in the trees out here and making my jewelry from all these different animals int the road. Oh was really brok my heart the other day. A mother monkey standing on the hood of a car screaming and drying into the street. We were in a tuk tuk and didnt know what was going on at first but as we got closer we saw there, her young dead in the street. Someone had hit her baby and she was crying a sound i have never heard before. It was heart breaking and that image is ingreained in my head. I would have saved that monkey.
I think we will stay here a few more days then head to Varanasi and Darjeeling, ride that train!
Sorry for the words and lack of pictures but my computer is still broken. I'm working on it though...
With love and peace
G
Saturday, January 9, 2010
Lil bits. tiny tiny
So it totally sux in Mumbai India. I mean not totally but its not my cup of tea. The weather is beautiful and the architecture is gorgeous but its disgusting. we walked to the ocean last night and it was full of trash. it looked like a garbage dump flooded. The streets are filthy and it goes from smelling like sweet curry to shit and trash in a matter of seconds. you learn to never beathe in those sweet smells too deeply for it will be followed by opposing offensive ones. The men here are the worst. disgusting and very abrasive. asking us for sex and trying to sell us everything and anything. the smallest children who have yet to even speak, crawl up naked with one hand reaching out waiting for acknowledgment. its depressing.
We are staying at the salvation army which is actually very nice. we get free breakfast of toast banana tea and a hard boiled egg. Ive been giving Erica a piece of my bread and my egg every morning. i hope she doesn't develop cholesterol problems... The sweetest Indian women comes to clean our floors and sometimes change our pillow cases. we get cheap internet, although everyone is waiting to use it, and the people who work here are very kind and more than helpful. I like it. We'll stay til the 12th. Today we get to explore elephant islands caves, tomorrow i think we spend the day at the yoga place using their wifi and hopefully takin a full day of classes and a warm shower. then the 12th we take a train to deli and a connecting bus to Hardiwar and Rishakesh. (neighboring cities) should take us a lil over 24 hours. Then the fourteenth! Oh the 14th!! There is this festival starting that i cant believe im going to see for myself. When Amanda came to visit Chicago for the first time we went to see the pirate exhibit at the Field Museum, which was mediocre. What did catch my eye was the photo exhibit following that was of this Indian pilgrimage. The largest gathering of humans in the world. It happens every 12 years when the planets align in a very specific way. Indian men with crazy dreads and full body paint. dipping in the cold waters. It happens at different times of the year every time and this year it falls in the dead of their winter (about 50 or so degrees) and i get to see it! by the way my dread are comin along nicely, just sayin... I think once i get out there i will feel much better. free of all this craziness and city suppressors. I cant wait to walk the street and not be assaulted or almost hit by a biker, 6 cabs, a cow, and an auto.
We are staying at the salvation army which is actually very nice. we get free breakfast of toast banana tea and a hard boiled egg. Ive been giving Erica a piece of my bread and my egg every morning. i hope she doesn't develop cholesterol problems... The sweetest Indian women comes to clean our floors and sometimes change our pillow cases. we get cheap internet, although everyone is waiting to use it, and the people who work here are very kind and more than helpful. I like it. We'll stay til the 12th. Today we get to explore elephant islands caves, tomorrow i think we spend the day at the yoga place using their wifi and hopefully takin a full day of classes and a warm shower. then the 12th we take a train to deli and a connecting bus to Hardiwar and Rishakesh. (neighboring cities) should take us a lil over 24 hours. Then the fourteenth! Oh the 14th!! There is this festival starting that i cant believe im going to see for myself. When Amanda came to visit Chicago for the first time we went to see the pirate exhibit at the Field Museum, which was mediocre. What did catch my eye was the photo exhibit following that was of this Indian pilgrimage. The largest gathering of humans in the world. It happens every 12 years when the planets align in a very specific way. Indian men with crazy dreads and full body paint. dipping in the cold waters. It happens at different times of the year every time and this year it falls in the dead of their winter (about 50 or so degrees) and i get to see it! by the way my dread are comin along nicely, just sayin... I think once i get out there i will feel much better. free of all this craziness and city suppressors. I cant wait to walk the street and not be assaulted or almost hit by a biker, 6 cabs, a cow, and an auto.
Friday, January 8, 2010
fresh out of yoga
My body is in pain. Not because it is sore but because it is confused. I started class at 6:30 here but my body thinks its 4 am. Its a stuggle. Ever minute longer i look at myself in that mirror for those 90min i feel my insides moving and yelling at me. I had i mini break down in class today. I really am starting to dislike Mumbai. I left the big city to get out. And go to a bigger more intense city? I'm not a fan. The culture is beautiful but i need to escape. Hopefully i can make it these next two days and get on our 24 hour train ta deli and then ship ourselves over to the Kumbh Mela Festival. It happens once every 12 years and I am luck enough to be able to take part. Or at least witness it all.
I wish my computer would work so i could show the amazing pictures I have thus far but I'm so luck to be lugging around an extra 5 pounds of broke ass computer. Waste...
I wish my computer would work so i could show the amazing pictures I have thus far but I'm so luck to be lugging around an extra 5 pounds of broke ass computer. Waste...
Thursday, January 7, 2010
Zero...Days 1-3
My trip started relatively rough. Not going to get into it but had some flight issues. So 19+ hours of travel time and I was here. Mumbai, India 3am. Erica was there to meet me and oh was it a happy meeting. It had been over month since i've seen my dear friend and over a month since she had a glimpse of home. The 45 min cab ride to our 'hotel' was my first taste of what was to come. At 3am there were men, women, and children lining the streets preparing for the morning markets. Children running naked through different bundles of vegetable. The homeless lay asleep in what looked like piles on the side of the road. My cab driver drove what felt like a hundred miles an hour in circles, not knowing where our supposed hotel was, stopping to ask 4 different people before Erica directed to to the red light district. Our new home.
I sat in my new bed, expecting some sort of give but no. It was a sheet over a piece of wood. As i sat there looking around my 5 by 5 space the bugs looked to have gotten comfortable and scattered about my white linens. What could i do? I pulled out my fantastic travel sheet, laid it down, and slept for two hours before it was time to get up and find a new home. This one was broke.
Our next place made Erica overly happy. a shower in the room, tea in the morning and a fan. A win for both of us. Unfortunately, sleeping in the same bed as Erica, i managed to awake with an arm full of bug bites and an itch to match. Never sleep under the sheets i guess. Shit gets caught in there and bites its way out.
Our day was spent getting our footing. Figuring out our new home and such. My favorite part? stupid.... the dogs. So many strays and they all loved me. Maybe cus i decided bringing one of my tails along was a good idea but needless to say they loved me. We walked for the better half of the day in unbroken in rainbow sandals. Bad idea. Thank you brown for your gift because my feet were chewed up so I went bare foot the rest of the day. Not the smartest but i though it felt good. The children were my least favorite. Forced to go out and beg my their families for money, pulling at your cloths and tugging at your heart. Many of them naked to appear more poor than they actually were.
After leaving our 'clean' hotel the next morning we checked into a salvation army and set out for good eats and a day of yoga. It took two hours to get there but we found our bikram yoga studio in a disgusting world fitness center. I didnt care though. Anything to make my body not ache like it had been. The food and the flight had really made me feel toxic. 4 hours of yoga later and i was in heaven. i feel like a million bucks. so our journey continues. we are switching homes once again today and hoping we can make our way out of this city.
Mumbai is a big city. It's not the real full on taste of India. I haven't gotten it yet that full flavor dirt deliciousness but this is just the beginning. A real glimpse at what is to come. . .
X
I sat in my new bed, expecting some sort of give but no. It was a sheet over a piece of wood. As i sat there looking around my 5 by 5 space the bugs looked to have gotten comfortable and scattered about my white linens. What could i do? I pulled out my fantastic travel sheet, laid it down, and slept for two hours before it was time to get up and find a new home. This one was broke.
Our next place made Erica overly happy. a shower in the room, tea in the morning and a fan. A win for both of us. Unfortunately, sleeping in the same bed as Erica, i managed to awake with an arm full of bug bites and an itch to match. Never sleep under the sheets i guess. Shit gets caught in there and bites its way out.
Our day was spent getting our footing. Figuring out our new home and such. My favorite part? stupid.... the dogs. So many strays and they all loved me. Maybe cus i decided bringing one of my tails along was a good idea but needless to say they loved me. We walked for the better half of the day in unbroken in rainbow sandals. Bad idea. Thank you brown for your gift because my feet were chewed up so I went bare foot the rest of the day. Not the smartest but i though it felt good. The children were my least favorite. Forced to go out and beg my their families for money, pulling at your cloths and tugging at your heart. Many of them naked to appear more poor than they actually were.
After leaving our 'clean' hotel the next morning we checked into a salvation army and set out for good eats and a day of yoga. It took two hours to get there but we found our bikram yoga studio in a disgusting world fitness center. I didnt care though. Anything to make my body not ache like it had been. The food and the flight had really made me feel toxic. 4 hours of yoga later and i was in heaven. i feel like a million bucks. so our journey continues. we are switching homes once again today and hoping we can make our way out of this city.
Mumbai is a big city. It's not the real full on taste of India. I haven't gotten it yet that full flavor dirt deliciousness but this is just the beginning. A real glimpse at what is to come. . .
X
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
